How to factory reset an iPhone

Factory resetting an iPhone sounds straightforward. In real life, it’s often where things go sideways: Activation Lock that blocks the next owner, an eSIM you delete too quickly (or keep without understanding what it means), an iPhone disabled after too many wrong passcode attempts, and the evergreen classic… thinking you “deleted everything” when you actually just reset a couple of settings.

This guide is about the real “zeroing out” — the option that erases all content and settings and brings the iPhone back to the out-of-box experience. I’ll also cover the scenarios that matter: selling/trading in, repair, a locked iPhone, and remote erase with Find My.

Reset, restore, erase: similar words, very different outcomes

Before tapping anything, here’s what iOS options mean in plain language:

Reset settings

It resets certain preferences (network, keyboard dictionary, Home Screen layout, location/privacy, etc.) without deleting your photos, apps, or messages. Good for troubleshooting, useless for selling.

Erase all content and settings

This is the full wipe from the iPhone itself. Everything is deleted, and the phone boots back to the “Hello” screen. This is the standard choice when you sell, give away, or recycle an iPhone.

Restore iPhone via Mac/PC

It erases the device and reinstalls iOS from a computer (Finder on Mac, Apple Devices app or iTunes on Windows depending on setup). Often the best option if the iPhone is glitchy, stuck on the Apple logo, or disabled.

Remote erase (Find My / iCloud.com)

Perfect when you don’t have the iPhone in your hands (lost, stolen, or simply far away). The erase triggers once the device is online. Very effective, but Activation Lock can remain if the iPhone is still linked to your Apple Account.

Before you wipe: the 3-minute checklist that avoids 90% of regrets

You don’t wipe an iPhone “properly” in 10 seconds. A tiny bit of prep saves headaches.

1) Backup: iCloud or computer

If you want to restore your data later, make a backup:

• iCloud (easy, automatic if you have enough storage)
• Mac/PC (local backup, often faster and sometimes more complete)

Small detail people learn too late: if you wipe without a recent backup, you’re also deleting your last safety net.

2) Apple Account + Find My: the duo that can break a sale

iPhone has a protection called Activation Lock, tied to Find My. Great against theft, brutal if you sell an iPhone that’s still attached to your account.

Good news: if you erase from the official iPhone menu, iOS usually asks for your Apple Account password and cleans things up properly. Bad news: if you restore from a computer without managing Find My first, you can end up with a wiped iPhone that’s still activation-locked.

3) eSIM: should you delete it?

If you’re using an eSIM, iOS may ask whether you want to remove the eSIM or keep it during the wipe.

• If you’re selling the iPhone: deleting it is usually the cleanest option.
• If you’re keeping the iPhone and just want a fresh start: you might keep it, depending on your situation.

Keep in mind: removing the eSIM can mean re-activation with your carrier afterward. Not a disaster, but it’s an extra step.

4) Switching to Android? Think iMessage/FaceTime

It’s a boring but real one: if you’re moving from iPhone to Android, consider turning off iMessage (and sometimes FaceTime) so messages don’t keep trying to route through Apple instead of arriving as regular SMS.

Method 1: Erase from the iPhone (simplest, usually the cleanest)

This is the path I recommend most of the time.

Steps

1. Open Settings
2. Go to General
3. Scroll to Transfer or Reset iPhone
4. Tap Erase All Content and Settings
5. Enter:
   • your passcode (if asked)
   • then your Apple Account password (very common)
6. If you have eSIM: choose whether to delete it or keep it
7. Confirm and wait (a few minutes)

When it’s done, you’ll see the “Hello” setup screen. That’s the “clean slate” state.

What it actually removes

• Photos, videos, apps, documents
• Accounts (mail, iCloud, etc.)
• Apple Pay cards (typically)
• System settings and data

One reassuring point: iPhone data is encrypted. Wiping also removes the encryption keys, making previous data practically unrecoverable in normal conditions.

Method 2: Restore with a Mac or PC (when you want iOS truly “fresh” or the phone is acting up)

Two common reasons:

• The iPhone is unstable (bugs, random restarts, software issues)
• You can’t erase from Settings

On Mac (Finder)

1. Connect the iPhone via USB/USB-C
2. Open Finder
3. Select your iPhone in the sidebar
4. Go to General
5. Click Restore iPhone

On Windows (Apple Devices / iTunes)

On newer Windows setups, Apple uses the Apple Devices app. On others, it’s still iTunes.
Either way: select the iPhone and choose Restore.

Watch out for Find My

Apple is pretty clear here: if Find My is enabled, you may need to handle account linking properly or you’ll hit Activation Lock during setup. This tends to happen more often with computer restores than with on-device erases.

Method 3: iPhone disabled or passcode forgotten (the “emergency” scenario)

If the iPhone is disabled or you forgot the passcode, you can’t use Settings. You’ll need a computer and Recovery Mode.

Put the iPhone into Recovery Mode

Steps vary by model:

• iPhone 8 or later (including iPhone SE 2nd gen and later): press and release Volume Up, press and release Volume Down, then hold the Side button until you see the “connect to computer” screen.
• iPhone 7 / 7 Plus: hold Side button + Volume Down until you see “connect to computer”.
• iPhone 6s or earlier (including iPhone SE 1st gen): hold Home + Top/Side button until you see “connect to computer”.

Then:

1. On Mac: Finder > iPhone > Restore
2. On Windows: Apple Devices / iTunes > Restore

Yes, it wipes everything. No, there’s no magic workaround without a backup.

Method 4: Remote erase (Find My / iCloud.com)

This is your option when you don’t physically have the iPhone.

From the Find My app (on another iPhone/iPad/Mac)

1. Open Find My
2. Go to Devices
3. Select the iPhone
4. Tap Erase This Device
5. Confirm

From iCloud.com

1. Sign in to iCloud.com (Find My section)
2. Select the device
3. Start the erase

Important nuance: remote erase is excellent for data protection, but if you’re selling and still have access to your Apple Account, you should also remove the device from your account so the buyer doesn’t get stuck at activation.

Selling, trade-in, repair: cases where the approach shifts slightly

If you’re selling or giving it away

Your goal is twofold: wipe the iPhone and make sure it’s no longer tied to you. The clean route:

• backup (if needed)
• erase via Erase All Content and Settings
• verify it lands on the “Hello” screen and doesn’t ask for your Apple ID during someone else’s setup

If you missed a step, you can often fix it through iCloud/Find My by removing the device from your account. If you want to sell your iPhone, CertiDeal offers an easy and fast online buyback service.

If you’re sending it for repair

Same basics: backup, then erase. Also consider removing the physical SIM if you use one, and double-check anything tied to your account.

FAQ

Does wiping an iPhone really delete everything?

If you use Erase All Content and Settings, yes: data and settings go. “Reset settings” does not delete photos, apps, or messages.

What’s the difference between erase and restore?

Erasing on the iPhone wipes it back to the setup screen. Restoring from a computer wipes it and reinstalls iOS, which is useful when the system is corrupted or stuck.

Should I delete my eSIM before selling?

Usually yes — it keeps things clean. But depending on your carrier, you might need to re-activate your eSIM on your next phone.

Does erasing remove Activation Lock?

Not always. Activation Lock is tied to Find My and your Apple Account. If the device is still linked, the next owner may get blocked at activation.

How do I wipe an iPhone without the passcode?

You’ll need a computer: Recovery Mode + Restore. That’s the official route when the passcode is forgotten or the iPhone is disabled.

My iPhone is stuck on the Apple logo — what now?

A computer restore (often through Recovery Mode) is a common fix for logo loops and boot issues.

Why disable iMessage when switching to Android?

Because your number can stay registered with iMessage, and some messages may keep routing through Apple instead of arriving as SMS on Android.

Can I undo the wipe after it starts?

If it’s finished, no. With remote erase, there are edge cases where it hasn’t executed yet (device offline), but it’s not something to rely on.

How long does it take?

Usually a few minutes. A computer restore can take longer because it may download and reinstall iOS.

Final thoughts

What always strikes me is how Apple manages to be very user-friendly and very unforgiving at the same time. The “Transfer or Reset” menu is clear, eSIM handling is finally mature, and the security model is solid. But there’s a paradox: the more protected the iPhone is (and honestly, that’s a good thing), the easier it is to create a mess if you don’t understand the relationship between the device, your account, and Find My.

A real wipe isn’t just “deleting files”. It’s properly breaking the link between hardware and identity. Do it right and the iPhone becomes neutral again, ready for a new life. Do it wrong and you end up with a pristine phone that’s basically unusable for anyone but you. As anti-theft protection, it’s brilliant. In a legit second-hand sale, it can be a tiny bureaucratic nightmare.

Discover all our iPhone guides!